Jim Simon photography


Film Photography and some other stuff, you'll see


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Films



Too often people look at cameras first, then they might look at lenses (which are really more important than the cameras) and lastly they might think about the films which are, arguably, more important still. I predominantly use black and white film as you can see from the above selection I took from my drawer for the purposes of taking the photo, but I did spend many years with Kodachrome (ahh....) and jobbing 200 asa Kodacolour Gold in my OM's when I had no time for developing etc. Now I have time and also the inclination to go back to my first love; black and white photography. In many ways black and white is a cop out - for me it's easier to get interesting images in black and white than it is in colour so I suspect the native graphic generosity of black and white images covers my lack of ability.

I have recently bought a 6x9 camera and am very much enjoying Portra 400, so colour is re-entering my life post digital. If I want a picture of some stuff for general webbery or showing someone something I'll just use digital, and probably "just" my iPad. It works, but colour film is fun and just seems to give me something. I'll probably come back to this because it's still quite new to me.


I do have favourite films:


Tri-X

Now very expensive in the UK, though the developer I use (HC-110) is almost free. Tri-X has the "pepper and salt" grain that many, including me, like, and together with a very light green filter I have on my Leica it gives me great landscapes in which the foliage stands out in the mid-tones. Close up definition is also fine, though it is a 400 asa film and the grain is grain. I generally expose it at 250 asa and go easy on the agitation in the developing tank and this controls the contrast and the highlights and puts more detail in the shadows. I sometimes forget myself and agitate too much which I always regret! My regime is expose at 250 asa, develop in Dilution B (6.3ml syrup to 300ml) at 20 degrees C for 6.5 minutes. I agitate it very gently at the start, then at 1,2,3 and5 mins.



Leica M2 | Summaron 2.8 | Light green filter | Tri-X



HP5

One of the best things about HP5, and I'm ashamed to admit it, is that here in the UK HP5 is a lot cheaper than Tri-X. Now, in one's pursuit of all things arty cost of materials shouldn't really be up there with grain and slopes and so on, but for me it is. This isn't so much because I can't afford the odd roll of Tri-X but because I'm just plain stingy. Of course if HP5 was rubbish I'd just go for something else, but I have found a regime that produces silky smooth images. The HC-110 I use with Tri-X (and FP4) is pretty much free one uses so little each time, so this offsets the cost of the Tri-X itself, but with HP5 I need a fine grain developer to sort out HP5's quite brusque natural texture. I expose HP5 at 250asa and develop in neat (stock) Perceptol. This does somewhat negate the use of the cheaper film as a litre of Perceptol yields 3.1 films' developing. Hey ho - who cares?

I expose HP5 at 250asa and develop with very moderate agitation for 13mins @ 20C.



Leica M2 | 35mm f2.8 Summaron | HP5 | Stock Perceptol

Not the greatest image in the known universe, but it does show the range of smooth tones that neat Perceptol gives to HP5. I have tried 1+3 Perceptol, and 1+1, but neither of these more economical (cheaper) regimes does what using stock solution does.

Here's an example of 1+1:



Olympus Trip 35 | HP5 | Stock Perceptol 1+1

It's just less... creamy. More like HP5 in fact. Maybe I should just find a film that more naturally gives me what I like, such as a Delta or TMax or something? But I like the Ilford stuff; it's what I grew up with.


I like my Perceptol neat:



Leica M2 | 35mm f2.8 Summaron | HP5 | Stock Perceptol

Like this. Detail and smooth textures. Not like HP5 at all, really.



FP4

Another of the old school Ilford films - I like old school - (or am old school (or still act school-age even though I'm old...)) because I am familiar with them I guess. I ought to experiment with some of the newer emulsions. Well, I might...

FP4 was my film for many years when I had a darkroom and everything and I always used ID11 with it which gave superb negs many of which I still have going in my general film life. Sadly, as I may have explained elsewhere, I scan now and don't have a wet darkroom, but, well, that's life if you can call it life

Anyway - FP4 has lovely rich grain even with HC-110 which I now use because it sort of works though I feel ID11 would probably be better still.



Olympus OM1 | Zuiko 24mm f2.8 | FP4 | HC-110

A rather dark example that my not translate well onto whatever you're viewing this on, but it shows highs and lows and lots inbetween. Close up the tight grain structure of FP4 is retained with HC-110, though I think it might be less granular with ID11. I just stopped using the powder developers as I used so much Tri-X before it got pricey that I've got used to the ease of HC-110.

This next one is a more open subject:



Olympus Trip 35 | FP4 | HC-110

Quite nice enough.


Portra 400

Colour?!?!? What's going on?​



Fuji GW690ii | Portra 400

This is what's going on. It's my website I'll start using colour again if I like.



Fuju GW690ii | Portra 400

You're not good enough to see what this looks like big. Note how the latitude of negative film, and Portra in particular, allows one to expose sufficiently for there to be life in the darker areas, but it still holds on to the brightest elements, such as the sun.



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